![]() ![]() This handy set includes 3 hardened steel screw extractors in the most commonly needed sizes: #1, #2 and #3, Simply load the appropriate size extractor into your power drill and turn your potential disaster into a successful extraction operation. Be prepared for the inevitable and avoid an unscheduled trip to the hardware store by having a set in your toolbox or on your workbench. If you don't have one of these screw extractor sets handy, your project or repair grinds to a halt. Now you can clean up the ragged holes with a 1/2-inch drill bit and fill the new hole with a dowel or plug (or both if the screw is long).Few things in life are more frustrating and stubborn than a stripped, broken or painted over screw. Use an awl or nail punch to wiggle the screw loose enough to grip with needle-nose pliers and pull free. Drill at least as deep as the screw length. Then use a 3/32-inch or 7/64-inch drill bit to bore holes immediately beside the broken screw on all sides. Use the point of a nail and tap lightly with a hammer to make five or six starter holes around the screw. ![]() If the screw breaks off more than 1/8 inch below the surface and you definitely need the screw in that location, use a 1/2-inch bit to widen the screw hole down to the broken end of the screw.If appearance matters and the screw is longer than 1 inch, use a dowel capped with a plug to give the replacement screw plenty of material to grip. If you need a seamless match, use the steps below to cut a wood plug from matching stock. Fill that hole with a dowel (if the wood won’t show). Then drill a 1/2-inch-diameter hole centered on the screw hole. Remove just enough wood for locking pliers to gain the extra grip you need on the shank to back out the screw. If the screw breaks at the wood surface, use the tip of a utility knife with a sharp blade to cut away some of the wood around the screw shank.They’ll give you enough grip to slowly turn the screw counterclockwise until it’s free. If the head snaps off while part of the screw shank still extends past the wood surface, grasp the screw shank with locking pliers.To determine how to remove a broken screw, review these three common scenarios: If you can’t move the screw location by even 1/4 inch, such as when you’re installing a hinge, you’ll need to remove the broken fastener and patch any damage you create. If you can leave the broken screw in place, such as when securing a deck board, simply drill a pilot hole and drive a second screw about 1/4 inch from the first one. ![]() When the head twists off a screw that’s been driven in place, you have a bigger problem. Turn the extractor slowly to back the screw out of the wood enough to grip it with the locking pliers and finish removing. Slowly spin the stripped screw remover counterclockwise and press down until you feel the extractor threads bite into the screw head. Place the extractor tip in the starter hole you drilled. First, drill a 1/8-inch deep hole in the center of the screw head to accept the largest screw extractor that'll fit the screw head. That way, a slip doesn’t turn into a scratch.įor #12 or larger screws where the stripped screw head rests flush with the wood (and you don’t want to risk damage to your project), turn to a screw extractor for help. Locking grip pliers sometimes lose their grip, so protect the wood surface underneath by cutting half the width of a small piece of cardboard and sliding the notched halves around the screw. Work slowly to avoid snapping off the head. If the screw head stands above the wood surface, clamp a pair of locking pliers to the screw as close as possible to the wood surface and gently turn it counterclockwise. You'll want to know how to get a stripped screw out for your project. Once that’s gone, the screw can’t be driven deeper or backed out. If you forget the pilot hole or drive a screw too quickly, a power screwdriver can spin fast enough to strip away the cross shape in a Phillips head screw. ![]()
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